Hello! It’s your skincare obsessed bestie. Thanks for inviting me to drop by, and I can’t wait to start sharing my recs with you. Here is what you can expect from me this week.

• ICYMI: news, trends, and things to chat about over brunch

• WAY TO GLO: authentic skincare secrets

• GLO ABOVE+BEYOND: business stories in beauty and skincare

• GLOSSIP: sales events you won’t want to miss

ICYMI

• TRENDS🤟 

  - When the sequel is better than the original for ChatGPT

  - Should I eat oranges in the shower?

• BUSINESS🤝 

  - TikTok’s Mr. Chew gets chewed on the Capitol Hill hot seat

  - How does BookTok make money anyway?

• CULTURE🤙 

  - First woman in the world to get 400M+ Instagram followers is…

  - Can fungi infections make The Last of Us a reality?

• RANDOM🙌 

  - Swifties and Bad Bunny fans, your password may be at risk

  - Gross reasons why you shouldn’t sleep with wet hair

• FOR FUNSIES 😁💖 

  - Unpopular opinion: Starbuck’s new Olive Oil Coffee is bomb

  - Check out The New Yorker’s Book Recs for This Week

WAY TO GLO!

Red Light Therapy (or LED light therapy) is an increasingly popular skincare treatment. Many influencers swear by its benefits: anti-aging, anti-rosacea, removes wrinkles + acne, promotes collagen production.

But can they be trusted? Does it really work? Well I did some homework and am here to spill the beans.

From The Very Beginning: Origin + Science Behind LED Light Therapy

LED therapy is actually a NASA technology!

NASA began researching the use of light therapy in the 60’s to help astronauts recover from injuries. Since then, the methodology has been adopted in various medical and therapeutic applications, including wound healing, pain relief, and depression.

Supposedly, LED therapy works by penetrating the skin and “activating” things from a cellular level. Each color in the visible light spectrum corresponds to a different wavelength, and travels to a different depth in the skin. Depending on how deeply they travel, LED lights are thought to have different biological impacts.  

Experts believe Red Light Therapy works on cells known as fibroblasts (check out an illustration I posted in last week’s issue), which play a role in the production of collagen. Theoretically, by increasing collagen density in our skin, red light delivers anti-aging effects and helps to reverse some signs related to photoaging.

Blue Light Therapy may help treat acne by (1) reducing oil production in the sebaceous glands and (2) destroying acne-causing bacteria.

Together, Red and Blue Lights are often used in combination to help fight acne — the blue light inhibiting the causes of acne and the red light targeting collagen generation.

Should You Be Using LED or RLT or BLT? Does it actually work?

Well of course I am going to say: weigh your decision on the benefits + risks+ cost.

I personally have never tried this treatment, but I am interested in seeing whether RLT can really help me increase collagen production when the only best option currently is a collagen supplement (more on that in future issues).

In terms of EFFICACY, the actual science is more nuanced, but I am breaking this down into 3 parts:

• Does red light actually travel through the skin?

  We know for a fact this is true. Red light in the mid 600nm wavelength can indeed penetrate the skin.

• Does red light actually “stimulate” fibroblast and increase collagen production?

  There is some research (like this one) showing increased in vitro collagen production after RLT.

• Does the science apply to humans?

  The most relevant study is a controlled clinical trial in which 136 patients underwent RLT and discovered that red and near-infrared light treatment led to “reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, skin roughness, and intradermal collagen density increase”.

That sounds like a win to me!!

The biggest impediment remaining, for me, is the lack of research and knowledge around long term risks related to this treatment. I am worried about accidentally exposing myself to too much of the treatment or unknowingly building reliance on this treatment. Unfortunately, as of today, there are no known studies to back that up or prove otherwise.

But all things aside, one thing you should not do is using this as a treatment for a chronic skin condition. Always consult a doctor prior to LED treatment if you are already treating for another chronic condition.

Either way, let’s go through the Pros and Cons for getting a home RLT device.

The PROs:

1. Improves skin texture and tone

2. Reduces fine lines and wrinkles (Anti-aging!)

3. Increases collagen and elastin production (Anti-aging!)

4. Reduces acne and rosacea

The CONs:  

1. $$$$

2. Less effective than professional-grade devices

3. Inconclusive research around long term risks

4. Does not help with acne cysts, blackheads or whiteheads

5. May cause eye damage if used improperly

6. Results may be slow

7. Some studies have even shown that Blue Violet Light, at high doses, may cause free radicals.

WDYT? Have you made your mind yet? In case you have, here are some resources for your next steps.

If I Want To Buy An RLT Device, What Should I Consider?

1. Skin Concern x Light Type:

   As mentioned above, different colors of light target different skin concerns.

2. The Wavelengths Offered:

   For blue light therapy, wavelengths range from 450 to 500 nanometers (nm).

   The current industry standard for red light therapy is in the mid 600 nanometer (nm) range, coupled with a near infrared light in the 820-850 (nm) range.

3. Safety Measures:

   Make sure it’s FDA-cleared at the very least. Although LED devices are only subject to the less strenuous 510(K) process, it is important that you choose a product that has gone through the checks for basic safety. On FDA’s website, you can search for a list of manufactures (search term “LED therapy”) whose LED treatment products have been cleared by the FDA.

4. Comfort & Fit:

   If you are thinking about purchasing a mask, make sure the device fits comfortably on your face. There are many reviews for existing products on the market where the fit is either too narrow or too wide. Since you need persistent, daily application to achieve the desired result, comfort should be a key decision factor.

Like this stuff? Then share with your friends & family. Having your support and feedback is what gets me going each week.

GLO ABOVE+BEYOND

Have you heard the news?

Glossier, the cult-favorite, direct-to-consumer beauty brand is making moves. From launching its newest New York SOHO store, to partnering with Sephora, to shaking up their leadership, Glossier is looking to resuscitate its influence in a landscape that has shifted dramatically since its heyday. And as someone who loves to stay in the loop about all things beauty, I just had to share the tea with you.

The Glossi-er Heydays

Late 2010s was a time when skincare routines were simpler, Instagram filters were softer, and brows were bushier. It was when everyone and their grandma sported the "no-makeup makeup" look, and Glossier was the undisputed queen of the dewy, effortless aesthetic. At its peak, Glossier was the most popular millennial beauty brand on the block, valued at $1.2B dollars.

The Fade

But the beauty industry moves too quickly too soon. The once meteoric millennial pink became “cheugy” in the eyes of Gen Z. Despite having a billion dollar plus in valuation, and a war chest of $265M raised from top VCs, Glossier struggled to keep up with demographic changes. Sales declined and so did the Glossier buzz over time. During the pandemic, Glossier laid off nearly 200 retail employees, and eliminated an additional two dozen roles last year. All at the same time, Glossier reportedly had it’s most off-brand cameo yet in the likes of T.J.Maxx and Marshall’s.

The Pivot

Glossier is nevertheless regrouping now, under its new CEO Kyle Leahy. Rather than relying solely on e-commerce sales and attempting expansion through its own store fleet, the brand is partnering with Sephora. This strategic move will allow Glossier to steer away from investments in their non-core competencies, while gain distribution in a capital-lite model. The only uncertain is: in this new wholesale model, will Sephora allow Glossier to curate the same customer experience Glossier had wanted? Will Sephora’s customer base be enough to revive the brand?

GLOSSIP

• CASHBACK

  Rakuten 6% cashback on Ulta, stack it with the sales event!, use my referral link to receive $30 when you sign up.

• SALES EVENTS

  Sephora 50% off daily deal items, ends 04/01

  Ulta 50% off must haves, ends 04/01

  e.l.f. Cosmetics 30% off fan favorites, ends 03/31

  Make Up For Ever 25% off friends and family sale, ends 03/28

  YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE 25% off, ends 3/27

  Lancôme 30% off site wide sale, ends 3/25

That’s it for today friends! Will see you again next week~